Travel Diary: Golden Triangle and Karen Long Neck Village

We continued our tour around Chiang Rai with a visit to the Golden Triangle and Karen Long Neck Village. The Golden Triangle refers to the point where Laos, Myanmar and Thailand meet through the Mekong and Ruak River. The viewpoint is located on the riverside along Chiang Rai where various points of interest like the giant golden Buddha on a ship, elephant statues, elaborate shrines to the royal family and more were built. Thailand is so close to Myanmar that you can actually cross the border by foot at the nearby town Mae Sai. Both locals and tourists cross this border a lot to shop for plenty of affordable accessories, decor, food and Chinese imports. To be honest, this part of the tour was nowhere near eventful but since we were already in the area, we might as well check it out. The real highlight of our trip that day was the cultural experience we had at the Karen Long Neck Village. The Karen is a tribe that originally came from Myanmar. They’re known for their tradition of beautifying women by elongating their necks through the use of brass rings. The more brass rings worn around the neck of a woman, the prettier she is. It’s a tradition that has raised a lot of issues though. You see, these brass rings, which the Karen women also wear around their shins and arms, are made out of one solid piece of metal. I got to try a small piece and boy was it heavy! As early as age 5 or 6, Karen womem start wearing them around their necks with new rings added each year. These rings stay on pretty much their entire lives so imagine the effect they have on the women’s neck muscles. Over time, these women eventually lose the ability to hold their heads up by themselves. Without the rings, their necks would break. And because the brass rings are heavy, they actually smash the shoulders and rib cages of the women. This is how their necks appear unusually long.

I asked our guide if these women have a choice. Since it’s a really old tradition, maybe they can choose not to wear the brass rings. She says they do but they don’t really stay with the tribe. Most of the Karen people here are refugees so they can’t go out of the tribe and look for work in Thailand. They rely on tourists’ donations and the selling of souvenirs for money. This is why one wonders if they’re doing this to uphold a tradition or only as a means to earn. Personally, I’d like to think it’s the former. Although I find the tradition worrisome, as an outsider, I respect it. The Karen women I met here are all so nice and friendly, I only wish them good things. I may never understand their tradition, but it was definitely a learning experience for me–the kind I long for whenever I travel.

44 Responses to “Travel Diary: Golden Triangle and Karen Long Neck Village”
  1. Joyce

    Do you know where exactly the tribes are located? We do not wish to go with tour as they will rush you through everything and it’s hard to actually enjoy anything. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      Hmmm actually we did a private tour so we weren’t rushed or anything at all. I think this would be best so you don’t have to rent your own car, hire a driver and all that other stuff.

      Reply
  2. Selina

    Honestly, I can’t respect a tradition that harms people. Not all tradition is good

    Reply
  3. maebs

    so happy that they are keeping their traditions. :) hope our country is keeping our traditions also. :)

    Reply
  4. Maica

    Although I find it really creepy, it’s also a good way of preserving their culture and I admire them for that! Wearing a heavy metal around your neck is a pretty tough challenge and that you have to wear it for your whole life, that one is really whoah, I think I’m lost for word. I can’t tell if it’s amazing because thinking about on the other side they sure are suffering because on it’s effect, (and it’s ouchy) that’s why I’m out of my words right now. But still I respect there culture because that is the way they were brought up. You have a very good adventure here Ate Camille~ :D

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      Adventure indeed! It’s hard to understand for us, I must admit. I’m sure it must be painful to wear those. I tried one and it was super heavy!

      Reply
  5. Reena

    Diyos ko… parang lotus feet lng ng China… The pictures look so beautiful pero it’s heartbreaking to see little girls wearing those neck braces. It’s definitely beautiful to look at, pero I won’t sacrifice my health for it. I respect their culture and beliefs though.

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      Yeah I understand. There’s also the issue here if the kids fully understand what they’re doing na.

      Reply
  6. Katrin Tuano

    This post has to be as colorful as your Masskara Festival diary. Too cute!! Anyway, I really wonder what their necks look like if they would remove the brass rings tho. Honestly, I find the tradition hmm uhhh an ouchie (can’t think of a more appropriate term) but I respect it too. I really admire tribes like these, they really value their culture and they’re so colorful. And ohh, their Buddha’s are utterly slim, compared to the Chinese Buddha hehe

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      It’s definitely different and requires dedication. I can only imagine how hard it must be!

      Reply
  7. emxx

    hi Ms. Camille, your photos are really great =) i like your style. if you don’t mind, in which store did you buy your Jessica top and shorts? i really love it lang =) hope you’ll reply.

    Reply
  8. Anne

    This reminds me of that Yahoo article entitled “Tiis Ganda: Times of the Past”. This was one of the traditions mentioned alongside the lotus feet from China. Those rings look really heavy! I’m quite thankful that the ‘tiis ganda’ for women of our generation are more of plucking eyebrows, waxing and wearing sky high heels. Oh the things we do for beauty and traditions.

    Anne’s Scribbles and Doodles

    Reply
  9. Celerhina Aubrey

    It breaks my heart to see kids wearing those neck rings. :( But yeah. I guess we just have to respect their tradition. But I hope the parents don’t force their kids.

    Reply
  10. Esobel

    Hello Camille. It’s my second comment on this blog. :)
    Good to know there are still tribes in other places. They are the ones who make a place’s culture rich. However, it saddens me that there little girls have to wear those brass rings. I wonder, do they have like a DSWD counterpart there? Oh well.

    Anyway, did you buy pasalubongs for us? Haha. Kidding.

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      Haha, no pasalubong! Just travel diaries! :) I don’t know about DSWD but they are some groups pushing for the tradition to be stopped.

      Reply
  11. hannah

    Hi camille!Dying to know where you got the pink dress you posted recently. Thank you!!

    Reply
  12. kw

    Beautiful photos! But I was a little sad seeing those rings on the little girl. I know it’s tradition but it made me sad nonetheless.

    Reply
    • Camille Co

      Thanks Jeannie! I always love it when you guys appreciate my travel posts! :)

      Reply
  13. ALTAIR STAY-MAKER

    This post is a luxury . I loved it . I liked statuettes with gold rings . I am surprised

    Reply
  14. Clariss

    aww that tradition tho :( That must’ve hurt :( I wonder what their neck looks like if they remove the rings. Speaking of traditions, do you know ate cams if the lotus feet tradition in china is still on going? haha i just remembered it Lol

    Reply
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